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I got a question from a colleague in the UK yesterday who was writing a piece on "the soul of American craft beer." He asked who exemplified that soul, who was "taking it to the street."  Here's what I wrote in response:

Everyone in the craft industry takes it to the street by living the life of craft beer. Sure there are stars that the punters all clamor to see. But their popularity isn’t based on a pretty face, a million dollar ad campaign or a name made in some other industry and transplanted to beer.  The craft beer industry has been built by authentic entrepreneurs who daily breathe life and spirit into their companies and their brands.  The accumulation of that personal passion in all its diversity makes this industry interesting and engaging.  And it makes the beer distinctive.

In recent months, I had occasions to talk with brewers in Russia, Brazil and China and to share some American craft beers with them.  We got a range of reactions, but they’d often say "Oh, our consumers wouldn’t like this kind of beer."  I have no doubt they are right. But when craft beer started, you could honestly say the same thing about American consumers.  Craft beer didn’t arise to fill an unmet need among American consumers.  It arose to fill an UNKNOWN need among American consumers.  It was pioneered by people who said, “Hey, I like this beer so there must be other people who will like it too.  I’m going to make the kind of beer _I_ like and find other people who like it too.”  That’s a whole different marketing model than what is normally associated with American business. And it takes a heck of a lot of confidence and determination to build a business on that basis.  But craft brewers have not only done it, but created a whole industry in the meantime.  

Pretty remarkable, I say.

2009-02-18

Fantôme  “belgian «saison» ale brewed with spices” (sic)  made by Brasserie Fantôme and imported by Shelton Brothers.  8% abv.

This brewery takes the name of a ghost or phantom thus their labels feature an all-white cartoonish representation of a mythical spirit.  But lest you be tempted to impart some childish character to the beers based on this graphic, rest assured that they are quite sophisticated and grown up.  Overall, I felt this was really quite an amazing and charming beer, offering something for every type of enlightened beer drinker.

Like many saisons, this one is quite highly carbonated. My first sniff made me cough as my nostrils burned with CO2 as if I had stuck my head over a huge open fermenter. Perhaps that was a greeting from the more ethereal Fantôme. After a moment, I found an earthy and musty aroma mixing with the gas’s minerally tang.

The color was more golden than bronze, but fully hazy with no chance of seeing through even the thinnest glass of it. 

Ultimately in the palate I found a malty-soft acidity forming the backbone upon which the entire beer rides.  The main cargo includes fruitiness (sour apples and some ripe peach), some pale malt and a persistent dose of carbonated minerality. The finish has more sour tang than bitterness, but remains supple rather than sharp, blending all the flavors of the beer into a delightful aftertaste.

Neither label nor website offered any hint as to the ingredients even though both claim the use of spices.  Apparently these vary by season and year; Jackson describes a past edition that included dandelions.

2009-02-17

La Moneuse Saison  made by Brasserie de Blaugies Imported by Shelton Brothers.

This beer changed its label in recent years and the new one features a pencil drawing of the bandit Moneuse for whom the beer is named. He is apparently a relative of the brewery owners.  This is another modern brewery founded in 1988 according to Jackson’s most recent update (2005).

A distinct mustiness lies lightly across the full landscape of this beer, melding with nutty malt notes. The nose offers hits of anise through a floral hop nose with a background of faintly toffeeish malt.  That toffee note offers a pleasant malt base for the palate balanced by spicy bits of anise, clove and nutmeg.  It finishes softly with more spice that bitterness.

Creamy, big head, initially aggressive carbonation.  Bronze color with medium haze.  8% abv.

Brewed from “two malts”—likely wheat and barley—and “white sugar.”

New Brew From Award Winning Odell Brewing Co.

2009-02-16 

As part of a recently initiated rotating seasonal series, Odell Brewing Co just released their Red Ale which will be available thorugh May.  Lots of hops with a beautiful, bright spicy-citrus American hop aroma.  The palate of this deep red brew provides robust malt flavor to balance those hops and it is accented with a tangy roast note.  Retail prices are expected to be $9.49 to 9.99 per six-pack.